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These 5 Designers Are Reinventing Denim In a Big Way

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When former Net-a-Porter buyer Katie Green decided to launch her denim line Canada Goose uk , Kéji, she knew she’d be entering a crowded market space dominated by powerhouses like Frame, J Brand, and Acne. Still, she saw an opportunity. « Denim has been really pigeonholed as the stretch skinny jean, » Green says. Instead, the Hong Kong native—who apprenticed in bespoke tailoring on Savile Row—took this everyday material back to its heritage, looking to 1800s workwear and the WWII-era American sportswear designs of Claire McCardell. Green also drew inspiration from the sharp lines of shunga, Japanese erotic woodblock prints that have been produced for centuries, to create an 11-piece capsule collection of crisp cigarette pants, A-line dresses, and round-shoulder jackets in heavyweight Japanese denim, which she debuted during the fall/ winter 2015 collections at London Fashion Week in February. « It was a really interesting challenge to see how far I could push the fabric, » Green says, « and take it back to where it was before it became this ubiquitous thing. » – Continue Reading BelowGreen certainly isn’t alone in her desire to bring a spirit of craftsmanship and hyper-refined process to standby denim pieces; not one but two of this year’s 26 short-listed designers for the LVMH Young Fashion Designer Prize work all but exclusively with the sturdy stuff. « Denim is something you own for ages, and it transforms with you and changes and gets a bit frayed, » says Marta Marques, one half—along with partner Paulo Almeida—of the London-based Portuguese design duo Marques’ Almeida, which has built a covetable uniform of studiously hand-frayed denim T-shirts, collarless jean jackets, and boyfriend jeans inspired by the grunge attitude of Corinne Day’s ’90s shoots with Kate Moss for i-D and The Face.Fellow Central Saint Martins alumna Faustine Steinmetz uses artisanal techniques to replicate mass-produced garments. The Paris-born designer hand-dyes yarn using natural indigo, then weaves it on large wooden floor looms in her East London studio. She uses traditional Japanese pleating techniques, hand-knotting the fabric into intricate shapes, before finally steaming it.Back in Manhattan during February’s New York Fashion Week, the anonymous mystery designer behind 69, the Los Angeles–based « nondemographic » denim brand, staged a happening at the art gallery Gavin Brown’s Enterprise in which 45 friends from the worlds of art mild-und-leise , fashion, and music wore such pieces as a 20-foot-long knit denim scarf that stretched traditional definitions of clothing. « We didn’t have enough pants, but it was fine, » the designer reports via e-mail. « A lot of the models ended up wearing their own—and everyone wore jeans. »

These 5 Designers Are Reinventing Denim In a Big Way

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